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KINGSMERE CRAFTS

HAND-CRAFTED LEATHER GOODS

Applique lacing

The following illustrations are of the decorative stitch which can be used on various items such as belts, wallets or purses and so on. It can also be used to overlay one piece of leather on to another using ³/32" - ³/16" lace, or even to join them together.

how to start applique lacing

Starting from the back of the leather, as shown in Fig 1, push the needle through the first slit in the top row and pull the lace through except for its final ¾". Continue through the second slit in the bottom row pulling the lace securely, but not tight. Carry on stitching, Fig 2, through the second slit latching lacing, and under the stitch on the back of the leather. Now, in Fig 3, cross over the first stitch and through the first slit on the bottom row, which you will observe, forms a cross. Next, Fig 4, bring the needle and lace through the third slit on the top row, again latching lacing and under on the stitch on the back of the leather.

continuation of appliqe lacing

As illustrated in Fig 5, push the needle and lace beneath the cross. The stitch is once again, Fig 6, pulled securely but not tightened, continuing through the next available slit in the bottom row. Yet again lace up through the next slit in the top row to form a cross. Lace under this cross as previously described. Now, in Fig 8 you again got through the next slit in the bottom row and continue lacing as described in the preceding Figs 4, 5 and 6.

Carry on lacing until you have only 5" - 6" of lace remaining then push the needle under a couple of  stitches on the back side of the leather as shown, Fig 9, before cutting off the surplus lace. You can now splice in a new length of lace.

continuation of appliqe lacing

Lace through the next slit in the bottom row as can be seen in Fig 11. Continue lacing following the same procedures as in Figs 4, 5 and 6 yet again. Dampen the gouged channels lightly and run the stitching tool around the channel on the front side only. This is to show the places of the  holes to ensure even stitching.

To lace corners with the appliqué stitch, set up parallel rows of slits as shown in Fig 12, with one slit on the corner of the inside row and four on the outside. It is as vital to keep the distance between the rows precise when going round a corner as when in a straight line.

continuation of appliqe lacing

In Fig 13 it shows you how to lace through the three inside  corner slits twice and through the four outside corner slits only once. Be sure to go through (under) the cross as indicated in Fig 14.If you are going to lace completely around a project, lace to the starting point, then using a modelling tool or similar, pull the end of the lace  free from the first slit as shown in Fig 15.

In Fig 16 the end of the lace is pulled out of the loop. Figure 17 shows how to pull the end of the lace out of the second slit in the bottom row and the second slit in the top. Pull the end of the lace out of the loop a bit while at the same time making the loop somewhat bigger, Fig 18. Finally, Fig 19 pull the lace out of the remaining slit from the back of the leather leaving four empty slits.

continuation of applique lacing

In Fig 20 push the starting stitch under two stitches on the back of the leather, pull tight then trim off. Carry on lacing until there is only one slit left on the top row and one also on the bottom row as illustrated in Fig 21. As shown in Fig 22 lace through the remaining top slit then up through the back of the loop but do not pull it tight.

continuation and completion of applique lacing

In Fig 23 the lace comes through where they cross before going down through the front of the loop tightening it up slightly where it comes through the loop and under where the lace crosses. Go down through the remaining slit as in Fig 24 pulling it tight using your fingers to make adjustments so your stitches look equal. Finally, Fig 25, go under two stitches with your needle on the back of the leather, pull up tight and cut off the excess lace.



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