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leather shapes leather shapes

KINGSMERE CRAFTS

HAND-CRAFTED LEATHER GOODS

Hand-crafted, and decorative leatherwork. How is it done? - continued

Single hand sewing is in effect, back stitching. From the face side it appears as single length stitches and on the reverse as back, or stem, stitches, the length being twice the stitch size, and would be used when the reverse side is not seen. Its advantage is speed, because you need to hold only one needle and an awl at the same time.

 Whereas with double hand sewing it means holding two needles and an awl simultaneously. However, the quantity of thread used with single hand sewing is more than with double hand, but the waste is less, because the thread left in the needle after completing double hand sewing is unusable.

Needles and thread, scratch compass and stitching fid

After that diversion lets get back to saddle stitching, it is as you might imagine, used to stitch saddles, so there is a great deal of strength in it.

Here I am actually performing the hand stitching. Please note the position of my hands. I start stitching by running the left hand needle through from the back side of the leather and then pull it through with my left hand, raising it above the leather. Then, I push the right hand needle through the hole with that thread going through the bottom of the hole. I then take the needles and thread into my hands and tighten the stitch, and then continue by repeating the process until I am at the end of the area being stitched.

start saddle stitch

example of saddle stitch

Starting saddle stitch -  with two needles and awl

Example of saddle stitching

Finish of saddle stitching - and back to the first hole

The clam or clamp shown is the tool used for holding small work whilst it is being sewn; somewhat large, not to say cumbersome, it the most effective support for most work. Clams are used for holding small articles only, and are not required if the work can be held between the knees or fixed on to the bench during sewing.

the work held in the clam starting to sew view from both sides completing the stitching

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