HAND-CRAFTED LEATHER GOODS
Leather gloves patternA simple tp follow pattern that is easy to follow to make a pair of gloves, the sizes of these leather gloves can be scaled up or down, to fit anyone else who'd like wants a pair. All it takes is roughly 2' squared of a suitable leather, some heavy (18/3) waxed linen thread in a complementary colour and a proper leather needle.This will be a thick needle with a 3 surface chiseled head with a very sharp point. Sew with a thick padded thimble, or you will find the head of the needle going though your thumb, not forward though the leather. Some suitable card for the pattern and a clicker knife and/or a sharp pair of shears. Draw the pattern pieces shown in Fig 1 to their full size on the card Click for leather glove pattern. The pattern shown is for a pair of size 6½ gloves, so you have to scale it up for larger sizes, particularly across the knuckles and the finger length. (Gloves come in only 6 sizes while people's hands come in infinite shapes and configurations.) Cut out the pieces you've drawn on the card and position them on the grain side of your leather (not the rough side) as in shown in the cutting layout. If necessary you can keep the pattern pieces in place on the leather with small bits of sticky tape, prior to drawing carefully round them using a white or yellow lead china marking pencil.
Remove the patterns, turn them over to the unmarked sides and use them to draw out the reverse pieces on the skin as also indicated in Fig 2. Lay the skin on your cutting-out board and cut round the pieces using a sharp knife. So as not to get in a muddle, place the left hand pieces, (the bits marked 1 and 2 in Figure 1, plus a gusset) into one collection, and the right hand pieces in another.
For the fourchettes (the gussets that go between the fingers), you require six
for each hand, three of the sort A and three of B as indicated in Figure 3
part (a). Join each set of six in pairs (that is, one of A and one of B and
sew them together, right sides facing along the bottom edge (Fig 3 part (b)
You will have realised that the fourchettes are cut to the same length, but as
the fingers of the glove are different lengths, the fourchettes will have to be
trimmed and reshaped as you work.
Before stitching any of the pieces together, trim away the leather just along
the edges you are about to join.
Assuming you will be hand-stitching the glove, use the correctly shaped needle
which is specifically intended for sewing leather, using the colour matched
waxed thread you chose initially. The stitch to use, glove stitch
(the Glove Stitch, called this because it is the stitch used to make kid gloves,
consists of a zig-zag of straight stitches. It is sometimes called the Bosnian
Stitch.) Make this stitch by bringing the needle up at A and down at B, then up at A and
down at C, then up at D and down at C, etc. This makes a pretty edge stitch.
Make this stitch by bringing the needle up at A and down at B, then up at A and down at C, then up at D and down at C, etc. This makes a pretty edge stitch.. Thrust the needle through the two layers of leather, then back through them again making a small stitch, continuing as necessary. Your stitches should be about (¹/16" to ¹/8") long, be evenly spaced and about 1/16 inch from the raw edges. Begin and finish stitches knotting the threads, do not backstitch though the leather, that will weaken the leather, and lay the stitches down with the same consistently. It definitely shows in the small details and the finished product. You can tie off your sewing thread by creating a loop. Pull your thread through the loop, This leaves a second loop with which to thread through again. Pull your thread through that second loop and tighten the knot. Cut the thread.
Insert the thumb
Cut the thumb hole along the line B-C, Fig 4 (a), on the main glove piece and, on the thumb piece, cut along the line A-B Fig 4 (b). Keeping the wrong sides together, match point A on the main piece with point A on the thumb piece. Stitch them together from A through B round to C, and then on down the side of the thumb hole to the bottom Fig 4 (c). Now fold the thumb in half Fig 5 and sew together from the top down to A, and to the glove from A to D, and carry on around to the bottom of the thumb hole to complete.
Making the fingers and
Before sewing the fingers, make the pin tucks on the back of the glove by creasing the skin along the lines shown on the main pattern piece in Fig 1. Stitch with a running stitch to hold the creases in place. Next take a pair of fourchettes and stitch them to the back of the glove (the side with the three creases between the first and second finger (see Fig 6). The lower point of the slanting bottom edge of the fourchette should go in the V between the first and second finger. Stitch from the bottom of the V, up the side of the first finger first and, when about half way up, measure the length of fourchette needed to complete the finger. Trim off any extra length and reshape the fourchette. Carry on stitching up the side of the first finger to the tip of the fourchette, which should end just below the top of the finger. Starting again from the bottom of the V sew up the side of the second finger.
Following what you did previously, sew another pair of
fourchettes between the second and third, and another pair between the third and
fourth fingers. Fold the glove in half and finishing each finger by sewing the
other edge of each fourchette in position. Work always from the base of the
finger upwards, so that the bottom seam of the fourchettes comes exactly at the
base of the finger on the back and front of the glove. When you have finished
sewing the fourchette into the little finger, join the side edges of this finger
and continue the seam down to complete the side of the glove, inserting the
gusset, Fig7. Assemble the other glove using the same method you used to make
the first one. All being well you can wear them!